Myanmar Model Photograph: Renew The Logo

There is always a moment, when a big fashion brand starts to lose it's "spark". This happens when the current designer starts to bore everybody with their "classical luxury approach" and eventually, make each next collection even more deja vu than before. This situation definitely happened at (Yves) Saint Laurent, when in 2012 Stefano Pilati said a sad, grief good-bye. The owners of the brand told him "you're out of date" and he… they took Hedi Slimane. This guy really messed up with fashion industry by doing a massive masacre at the heritage house.. He does cheesy, over-sexualised clothing, but everybody loves that. His leather mini-skirts and mohair ponchos are best-sllers EVERYWHERE. And that was the precise goal of Pierre Berge, the "father" of YSL company.

In my opinion, same thing happened at Gucci. Frida Gianini abruptly departured from the Italian house earlier this year, making the hot seat of creative director empty. And then, Alessandro Michele entered the house and everybody was like "who is he?" Michele gave us Wes Anderson-like aristocratic grannies, romantic poets and lots of other things that Frida Gianini has never introduced to the label. The sheer lace tops are totally opposite to the "woman of success" blazers Frida used to show off so oftenly. The entire attitude changed and even the advertisemnt campaign's (now photographed with Glen Luchford, not Mert & Alas) mood evolved into something more chilled-out.

What's the moral? The best medicine for a musty & dusty fashion house is a new designer (which usually comes utterly out of the blue) that rebels towards the archives and the heritage. In case of Saint Laurent, I am not entirely sure whether I like it. But in case of Gucci, I totally feel it. But that's the matter of taste. Uff.