Since Guillaume Henry left Carven and went to Nina Ricci as the new creative director, the Pre-Fall 2015 is his last collection for the house. The 69-year old Parisian maison had its origins be all about couture – but the times changed, and just like Balenciaga, the house fell asleep. In case of Balenciaga, it was Nicolas Ghesquiere who rescued it, and in case of Carven – Henry. In just few years, Guillaume changed the label into mysterious, girly and bold… and for Pre-Fall he brought all his signatures in one place. In fact, he underlined the slow and steady symbolism of a hazelnut-colored garden snail's shell as his main image on a mood board clustered with nostalgic interiors and seventies automobiles. Effectively, that changes the speed and perfectly fits with pre-fall's cooler vibes; the silhouette shying away from Henry's signature micro-miniskirts and earlier baby-doll shapes to make a case for longer lines; a touch of asymmetry; and the boyish inflection of tailored jackets and culottes. Although it feels masculine, the designer showcased some lace and patent leather to keep the "Carven chic" on go. In my opinion, this collection is great, considering it's presented by Parisian label wich brings the Parisian chic each season. It's calm, sexy, but stable and interesting (the blazers!). Regarding the fact that Guillaume moves to Nina Ricci makes pretty happy: really, this house needs a boost after Peter Copping's commercial boredom. While Carven… definitely somebody sensible is going to take it over.
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